Kiryuori – Traditional Crafts that have been handed down over 1,300 years to the present day

Kiryuori has long been loved by people and is known as “Nishijin in the west and Kiryu in the east” as one of Japan’s representative textiles.

Kiryu textiles have a long history, and the passion and careful handiwork of craftsmen have been handed down from generation to generation, leading up to the present day.

This article introduces the charm of Kiryuori, which is characterized by its soft texture and luster.

Characteristics of Kiryuori: Rich texture produced by seven techniques

Kiryuori is a textile produced in and around Kiryu City, Gunma Prefecture, and is mainly made using the yarn-dyeing method.

Yarn-dyeing is a technique that uses pre-dyed yarns to express patterns through weaving techniques.

Kiryuori fabrics are woven using high quality materials such as silk and morning glory, and are characterized by their soft touch and luster.

Moreover, seven different techniques are used to produce expressive and beautiful patterns and colors.

Omeshi-ori （Omeshiori)		The highest quality textile originated in Kiryu. The name “omeshiori” comes from the fact that it was favored by Ienari Tokugawa. It is characterized by its unique fine irregularities.
Weft Nishikiori （Weft Nishikiori)		A pattern is drawn on a single-color warp thread with eight or more colors of weft threads.
Warp Nishikiori (Vertical Nishikiori)		A weave in which three or more colors of warp and two or more colors of weft are used to create a pattern.
Fu-tsuori (Wind-through weave)		A complex weave in which the pattern is expressed by using two layers of fabric, one on the reverse side and the other on the top.
Floating weft weave		A method of weaving a smooth embroidery-like pattern using two or more colors of warp threads in close proximity.
Warp Kasuri Monori (Vertical Kasuri Monori)		This is a very time-consuming weaving technique in which the warp threads are used to express a kasuri pattern, and the weft threads are used to weave out the pattern.
hemp yarn weaving (Mojiri-ori)		An unusual weave in which the warp yarns intertwine with the weft yarns, creating gaps in the folds.

Carefully woven Kiryuori is highly durable and can be used for a long time.

The charm of Kiryuori is the fusion of tradition and modern design.

The unique patterns and textures created by Kiryuori’s unique techniques have a charm that cannot be found in any other textile.

With its unique luster and supple texture, Kiryuori is used not only for kimonos and obis, but also for everyday fashion items such as ties, scarves, bags, and purses, and is still loved by people.

PRIRET Mountain Stole

Reference: PRIRET official website

This stole is made using the “Fu-tsuori” technique of Kiryu weaving, and is designed to be used as a towel for outdoor use only.

The double-layered structure of the fabric makes it highly breathable, easy to dry, and excellent in heat retention.

This item is useful in outdoor scenes as a towel in summer and as a thermal barrier in winter.

Alphatex necktie

Reference: official Alphatex HP

Founded in 1954, Alphatex is a leading manufacturer of neckwear, including ties, stoles, and scarves.

The company uses a process called jacquard weaving to create intricate patterns.

Kiryuori ties have a three-dimensional and glossy look that cannot be expressed by printing, and are known for their ease of tying.

Asakura-Sempu super water-repellent furoshiki “Nagare

Reference: Super water-repellent furoshiki “Nagare” official website

This furoshiki is the result of the fusion of Kiryu weaving technology and Asakura dyed fabric’s super water-repellent processing technology.

As the name “Nagare” suggests, when water splashes on the surface of the furoshiki, polka dots roll across the surface of the cloth.

It can be used as an eco-bag or umbrella, and can even hold 10 liters of water in case of emergency.

Because it repels not only water but also other liquids such as tea and juice, it can also be used as a luncheon mat or a lap cloth.

Vivid colors and a wide variety of designs along with functionality make it a popular product.

History of Kiryuori: Traditional techniques handed down from generation to generation

Reference: Kiryu Orimono Memorial Museum

Kiryu textile is one of Japan’s representative traditional textiles with a history of 1,300 years.

In the area around Kiryu City, which is rich in nature but had little arable land, sericulture has flourished for a long time, and Kiryuori has developed using the silk yarns obtained from the silkworms.

During the Warring States Period, Kiryu’s fame was enhanced by the presentation of flag silk to Tokugawa Ieyasu during the Battle of Sekigahara, which was made by Kiryu craftsmen in only one day or so.

After the Meiji period (1868-1912), Kiryu was quick to introduce cutting-edge technologies of the time, such as overseas dyeing techniques and looms, and by promoting industrialization, production volume increased dramatically and Kiryu textile has developed into one of the leading textile industries in Japan.

In 1977, seven techniques of Kiryu-ori were selected as traditional crafts by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry as particularly outstanding among the crafts handed down from generation to generation.

The traditional methods and techniques of Kiryuori, which have been carefully handed down from generation to generation, are highly valued not only in Japan, but throughout the world, and remain a valuable part of Japan’s textile culture.

Today, the city and the Kiryu Orimono Cooperative Association are playing a central role in fostering successors and further revitalizing the industry.

We hope to spread the charm of Kiryu textiles to as many people as possible.

Kiryuori is a wonderful textile that is steeped in Japanese tradition and craftsmanship.

By experiencing its beauty and unique techniques, one can further appreciate the depth of Japanese culture.

To ensure that the tradition of Kiryu Orimono continues to be handed down to the people, we invite you to take a look at the actual fabric and enjoy the world of Kiryu Orimono, which has been preserved and handed down by craftspeople over its long history.

Reference source: Kiryu Orimono | Kiryu Orimono Memorial Museum Official Website